In July, we made a post on Market City where some wholesale markets became the size of cities. Well, here is a feature from David Lebovitz on Rungis, the Parisian version of these markets.
[photo by David Lebovitz]
Filed under: Uncategorized
As we head in to our last day in Paris, it’s clearer than ever that we have more work to do. Documenting the markets was Step 1 of Some Emergent Markets, and we’re pleased that we’ve had the opportunity to wander Paris and Rome, searching out the loudest vendors, the most creative shading devices, and the biggest delivery trucks. The backlog of photos on our hard drives means that we still have plenty of information to sort through. Daphne’s notes for posts-to-come include headlines such as Metro Interactions, Graffiti, Trash Trees, and Smush, while you can expect Jie to follow up with Metro Canopy, Infrastructural Disturbances, and Market, M.D.
From the outset, we’ve been interested in markets as sites of emergence. While some of what we’ve seen has contradicted this idea, we’ve also come across evidence of reorganizations and adaptations occurring within standardized market structures. The emergent behaviors that we’ve observed happen across vastly different scales, ranging from the display of goods to the informal reach of the market. Emergence is evident not only in the arrangement of physical infrastructure, but in the ways that people interact in a space. The Campo dei Fiori-as-hotspot and the market vendor-call are related through their use of improvised theatrical performance–the passeggiata and the vendor-call are both opportunities to see-and-be-seen, and both rely on the fluctuating presence of a crowd.
We’re also thinking about future explorations that our documentation makes possible. It seems that physical models, grasshopper definitions, and large-format drawings are in the works; we hope that you’ll check in with us every now and then to see what we’re up to.
J+D
After almost 2 months of eating [and “researching”] our way through Rome and Paris, we admit defeat.
Sure, a picture is worth a thousand words…unless those words are, “Melon! 2 Euro/kilo! 2 Euro/kilo!” Click through the audio clips below to get a feel for the atmosphere at markets all around Paris. You’ll note that some are much noisier (more vibrant!) than others. If you listen closely, you can begin to tell which markets are full of gaps and lulls, when a market is empty and I’m able to walk quickly past vendors, and even when a market is crowded and I’m stuck by the tomato guy for a good 45 seconds.
Bastille
Brune
Crimee Curial
Edgar Quinet
Gros LaFontaine
Mortier
Popincourt–non-market day
Pyrenees
Reunion
Saint Charles
I’ll be annotating these clips over the next few days, so check back in for a more detailed analysis of the recordings.
Roving markets in Paris usually stand on their own [on medians, plazas or under metro tracks], but in case of the ones situated on the sidewalk, we’re noticing interaction with facing storefronts. The extent varies, but at Point du Jour Market in the 16th arrondissemont, the market-side and the storefront sides of the market begin to merge into one.
Formal stall structures line only one side of the sidewalk while rogue vendors fill in the gaps in between stores on the other side.
Soon, we begin to read the informal market umbrellas as an extension of store awnings.
Stores also begin to set up their goods outside to take advantage of market day.
Finally, add the market goers and the two sides are woven together as one large market.
An earlier post mentioned discovering a new typology of markets. Well, they are actually more common closer to the periphery of Paris. Here are two more sightings from yesterday.
Porte Brunet Market | 19th arrondissemont
Belgrand Market | 20th arrondissemont
We discovered a new typology of markets in the last couple of days: a split market. In order to get from one side to another, the visitors had to cross one or more streets [or church in the case of Jeanne d’Arc Market]. However, since the vendor offerings on each side were similar, the consumers don’t have to visit both sides of the market [unless they are enthusiastic market-goers like us].
Jeanne d’Arc Market | 13th arrondissemont
Saint Charles Market | 15th arrondissemont
Some consumers do cross from one side to the other and they tend to do it through one of the gaps in the market stalls.
Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: linear market, network, urban patterns, views
So much of our research has been focused on the nitty-gritty of Parisian markets (scaffolding, electrical outlets, bus stops and Metro signs), that a visitor to this blog could be excused for thinking that the city is entirely bereft of beautiful buildings and monuments. It’s time to correct this impression! Several of Paris’s markets take place in the shadow of the city’s most famous icons.
The Saxe-Bretuil market might be the most famous example of a food-shopping/icon-watching correlation. As you can see, in plan, the market is perfectly in line with the Eiffel Tower.
This doesn’t entirely bear out in person, however, as you can see from the photo below. Treetops block a bit of the view, and the busy market (those trucks, again) makes it difficult to find a spot to stand and admire it all.
The Bastille market is wonderful, but also full of tourists walking around looking for something to, well, storm. The monument in the middle of the traffic circle serves as a focal point at the entrance to the market, though it becomes less important as you walk further into the rows of market stalls.
The big surprise in all of this has been the market at the Square d’Anvers. Located Montmartre, the tiny market is sandwiched between apartment blocks, which in plan don’t seem all that promising. But! Montmartre is hilly, which opens up entirely new, non boulevard-/axis-related viewshed possibilities. Sacre Coeur is just up the hill from the square, and the view of it from the market is just lovely.
The range of market fullness has been an intriguing quality in the markets we’ve visited. Most are evenly distributed vendors that are sparse, full, or overflowing with rogue vendors. However, there are some with a gradient quality; one end bustling with people/vendors while it gradually diminishes until all that are left are skeletal stalls on the other. All of these differences are probably dependent on market location, time of day or day of the week [or even month of the year since Parisians are already beginning to go on Summer vacation].
Here are a few of the evenly distributed markets starting from the most sparse [skeletal] to the most packed [cattle herding style].
Salpétrière market in the 13th arrondissemont, Tuesday and Friday mornings
Maubert market in the 5th arrondissement, Tuesday+Thursday+Saturday mornings
Belleville market in the 11th arrondissemont, Tuesday and Friday mornings
Barbès Market in the 18th arrondissemont, Wednesday and Saturday mornings
Here are some markets with the gradient fullness. Is variation caused by their proximity to transportation hubs? Or immediate surroundings?
Auguste Blanqui market in the 13th arrondissemont, Tuesday+Friday+Saturday mornings
The activity level went from this near Place d’Italie…
Port Royal market in the 5th arrondissemont, Tuesday+Thursday+Saturday mornings
West end_closer to the Port Royal RER station…